This page has the most up to date information and sources for tapestry weaving tools and materials. Most of these resources are for US weavers, but there is a selection of International resources at the end of the page.

I’ll add new resources to this page as I learn of them.

Please note: I suggest these resources because I truly believe they are fantastic. From time to time I receive products for free to review. Some of the links on this page are affiliate links, specifically items purchased on the “Rebecca package” via Mirrix are affiliate links and I do receive a small commission if you purchase using that package. I’ve also collaborated with Gist Yarn to sell two courses as part of their weaving bundles, they pay me for each course they sell but I do not take a commission on their yarn sales.

Looms

I have written a lot about looms on my blog. See the blog category Looms HERE for ideas of what to look for, depending on what you want to weave. Start with THIS overview post.

  • Harrisville: Harrisville Rug Loom is my favorite loom

  • Magpie Woodworks is now making copper pipe looms and they have a kit with a tall pipe loom and a PVC jig. This is the perfect set-up for the Fringeless class.

  • Mirrix Looms: small and mid-sized looms including the Saffron and Chloe looms.

  • Schacht’s small looms: Easel Weaver or Lilli Loom

  • Schacht’s best tapestry looms: Arras or Cranbrook

  • Handywoman Shop: Beautiful hand-made wooden slotted looms

  • Sketchlooms: small looms with a lot of flexibility in sizing as you can mix and match parts from various looms. Very light.

  • Elara Loom from Don Betterley who also makes lovely shed sticks. Email him at betloom@gmail.com. Beautiful tensioned frame loom with the option of using paper clip warping or regular warping, two sizes.

  • And sometimes the best alternative is to make a loom yourself out of galvanized/black or copper pipe. Some of my online courses have free plans and support for making these looms (the Little Looms and Fringeless classes most specifically).

    Larger looms

  • There are many large high-warp tapestry looms out there, most are not being manufactured any more but used ones come up frequently. Common large tapestry looms are the Tissart, LeClerc Gobelin (still in production), Fireside (the high-warp tapestry looms), Crisp Ruthie, and Shannock.

  • Low-warp looms that work best for tapestry are counterbalance or countermarche looms. Of the jack looms, only the 40 inch and larger Macombers work well for tapestry. The Harrisville Rug Loom is my favorite countermarche loom. The Schacht Cranbrook is also great for tapestry. LeClerc makes some counterbalance looms. Rio Grande walking looms from the southwestern USA are also great for tapestry of any kind.

Frequently asked Loom Questions:

(Click on any question to expand the answer.)

There are many kinds of looms that will work for tapestry weaving. I have written a lot about looms on my blog. You can find all the posts in that category here: https://rebeccamezoff.com/blog?category=Looms

This post summarizes some basic loom information: Tapestry Looms: 5 Things you Need to Know

tapestry looms simplified

If you want an in-depth discussion of different tapestry looms as you’re trying to figure out the best one for you, you might consider this short online course, Tapestry Looms Simplified.

  • While it is possible, I don’t recommend it. Rigid heddle looms are not the best choice for tapestry weaving. Most of them have very small beams to wind the warp on and so they just don’t hold a very high tension. This can make learning tapestry weaving quite a bit more difficult. It isn’t impossible and I have had students be fairly successful using rigid heddle looms. But if you’re not a very type-A sort of person who is careful about warping and the amount of weft you put in, I would recommend starting with a loom designed for weaving tapestry or a countermarche or counterbalance floor loom. Rigid heddle looms that have separate beams to wind the warp and fabric on work better (for example the Schacht Cricket).

  • Table looms have the same problems as rigid heddle looms. I have met a couple table looms that held a very tight tension. One was a Louet and one was a Kessenich. Those were looms people had in classes and the Louet linked there is not the same one—it is no longer made. I do not own these looms and would still recommend using a tapestry loom for tapestry weaving.

  • Of course! I go over how to warp a copper pipe loom in the Introduction to Tapestry Weaving, Little Looms and Fringeless courses. But if you don't want to even go that far, you could use a picture frame and warp it just the way a copper pipe loom is warped. I want you to start weaving, and you don't have to have an expensive piece of equipment to do that.

  • Jack looms, especially the ones with an X-style frame, don’t hold a high tension. When you try to increase the tension it usually results in the jacks rising up which means you don’t get a shed. Some jack looms work better than others. The Macomber looms that are larger than 40 inches are excellent for tapestry. Their hardware is metal and very heavy so the jacks stay down when the tension increases. I use a 40 inch Macomber for some of my work. I have had looms from the Schacht Wolf line and Harrisville jack looms in my workshops and you can weave tapestry on them. However, you’ll have an easier time if you use a loom that is meant to hold a high tension. You may well damage your loom if you try to use it for tapestry if it wasn’t intended to be used that way.

  • No! Mirrix makes great looms, but so do other people. A good tapestry loom has nice strong and even tension. If you want a loom that provides a shedding device as well as excellent tension, a Mirrix is a great option. But it isn’t the only one. You can see which Mirrix equipment I recommend on their site HERE.

Warp yarn

I recommend cotton seine twine. This is often sold by Scandinavian companies and you might find Swedish, Finnish, or Norwegian sources. You’re looking for a cabled yarn used for tapestry warp. I recommend 12/6 or 12/9 cotton seine twine for setts around 8 epi. The warp I use is made by Bockens in Sweden. Some possible sources are below.

There are other cotton seine twine warps out there that work just fine.

  • Gist Yarn sells warp by Brassard of Canada HERE.

Weft yarn

I have written many blog posts about weft yarn. See the blog category Yarn HERE for ideas. THIS post talks about what to look for in a tapestry yarn. Some of my favorite yarn sources are listed below but there are many others. I talk about these yarns in all of my courses in some fashion, so if you have weft yarn questions, ask in one of the discussion sections of your class!



Other tools

Fringeless jigs

Magpie Woodworks is making PVC jigs for four-selvedge warping. They also have a copper pipe loom plus jig kit.

Bobbins

Tapestry forks/beaters

People often ask me about tines per inch on tapestry forks. The tines don’t need to match your sett. But if the tines are too close together, the warps will catch on them. I like the forks that have smooth metal tines set into wooden handles, but there are many other sorts out there. Anything between 6 and 11 tines per inch is probably fine for tapestry woven at or about 8 epi.

Shed sticks

Yarn needles and other weft carrying devices

  • 5 inch weaving needle: Susan Bates makes one I like. Google Susan Bates 5 inch weaving needle. Sometimes you can find them easily, sometimes not.

  • Shorter tapestry needles: these are available in many sizes from lots of suppliers. Big eyed yarn needles are great for carrying weft and you’ll want a smaller tapestry needle for sewing slits with thread.

  • Some people love net needles like THESE. There is a video about how to fill them HERE.

  • Other ways of holding weft besides tapestry bobbins, such as small stick shuttles or devices made for embroidery, are useful for small projects.

  • I talk about an “open shed bar” with small looms. I use double pointed knitting needles for this (small knitting needles—any size between US2 and 6 [2.75mm – 4mm] is fine) but any smooth thin, round stick will work. Barbecue skewers are a popular choice.

Thread for sewing slits

  • I like to use upholstery thread for sewing slits. It is strong and it comes in a few colors. The way I sew slits, the sewing is invisible, so I just use the natural/white color for almost everything. I use Coats and Clark brand like THIS, but any strong thread will work.

Miscellaneous items

  • Needle minder. The wooden magnetic needle block you see in many of my videos is made by CJM Woodcraft.

  • Stand for the Saffron loom. These 3D printed stands work really well to hold the Mirrix Saffron loom while working. https://itsallaboutthetools.com/

  • Stand for mini-tubes. The tubes that weaversbazaar yarns and the 1 ounce tubes of Gist Array yarn fit really well on these adorable stands. https://itsallaboutthetools.com/products/tapestry-yarn-stand

  • Marker for marking warps. I used black Sharpies for years. More recently Sharpie has made a more heat and waterfast version called Industrial. I now use THESE for all my warp marking.

  • Measuring tape or ruler.

  • Sharp small sewing scissors. I like THESE.

  • Ball winder. Most people use plastic ones like THIS one. I love my Nancy’s Knit Knacks electric ball winder, but it is overkill for most people.

  • Umbrella swift. I have always wanted one of the swifts that Schacht Spindle Company makes, but so far I still use a lightweight metal one that spins quickly like THIS one.

International resources

Many of the resources above are not in the USA, but many are. Shipping to outside the US can be prohibitive and it is nice to find materials locally. A student in Europe compiled the original list in 2020 of places to get yarn and tools. If you’re outside the USA and you find other resources to add, please do let me know.

Ready to start weaving?