Who else is a loom geek? I really enjoy trying out different pieces of equipment and though I’d love to try every large tapestry loom, mostly I’m testing small looms that I have the space for (or not!). Last week I talked about this new-to-me loom I’m playing with from weaversbazaar in the UK. I’ve had a wonderful time picking the shed and trying out the WB heavy 5/2 wool. You can read about that HERE. I wanted to share a bit more about the clamps that are holding the loom and try them with a couple other looms I like.*
Below is the loom made by Andrew Dickinson of Artisan Bobbins that I purchased from weaversbazaar. This image shows the clamps they sell, also made by Andrew. They’re called tapestry frame holders. I love these clamps for this loom. I really like that I can easily tilt the work and I can clamp the loom higher on the threaded rod and drop it down toward my lap. This is helpful to keep me from reaching too high as I weave and means I don’t have to adjust my seat height to keep my body in the best position.
Artisan Bobbins makes this tapestry frame and adjustable frame stand.
The frame holders allow the loom to tilt really easily to any angle.
Artisan Bobbins’ tapestry frame stand
Artisan Bobbins’ tapestry frame stand detail
This particular loom has threaded rod along the whole side so I can adjust where the loom is clamped and that is marvelous with this piece of equipment. The other pipe-type looms I wanted to try it with aren’t quite so versatile.
I tried a copper pipe loom first. The way I make these looms means that the exposed threaded rod is in the center of the loom. This is a good pivot point and seemed to work well. I could also make a loom that had the threaded rod higher on the loom for use with these clamps if I wanted the loom to sit lower toward my lap.
The loom pictured below was one I already had warped with a Fringeless four-selvedge warp. The exposed threaded rod was just wide enough for the clamps. I am hesitant to clamp the copper because it is quite a soft metal. I suspect this equipment would not damage it but I haven’t yet tested that theory.
Copper pipe loom held by the Artisan Bobbins tapestry frame holder
The clamp system has two different width spacers that you can switch out depending on how thick the uprights you’re wanting to clamp are. The spacers have cork on one side which I think would adequately shield the copper pipe from damage and thus I could clamp this loom around the copper pipe. The image below shows the thinner spacer installed to accommodate the thicker threaded rod of my pipe loom. I’m holding the thicker spacer that I had installed for the Artisan Bobbins frame loom. You can see the pieces of protective cork on each side of the threaded rod.
Using the tapestry frame holder by Artisan Bobbins with a copper pipe loom; showing the two different spacers it comes with.
Next I wanted to try a Mirrix in the tapestry frame holders. The threaded rod on a Mirrix is only at the bottom of the loom and I suspected I was not going to like this set-up as much. I was right. The loom sits too high in the holders for comfort for me. If I was using warp extenders and had more threaded rod, it might be fine, but in that case I would definitely want to be using an electric treadle to change the shed. I suspect the copper could be clamped instead of the rod in which case these clamps would work well, but I have not tested that. A Mirrix is significantly heavier than the tapestry frame or the copper pipe loom, but these clamps had no difficulty managing the weight even with it being so top heavy as shown in this picture.
The square edge of the Mirrix loom sticks out from the threaded rod so it isn’t possible to have the loom pivot all the way vertical with these clamps, not that that would be a comfortable way to weave anyway. For whatever reason, when I attached the Mirrix I pivoted the clamps around so the tightening screws were on the front. You can have them on either side. It is easier to get the loom attached with them facing you, but if they’re on the back, they’re out of the way and your weft won’t catch on them.
Mirrix Little Guy loom held with Artisan Bobbin’s tapestry frame holders.
Mirrix held by the tapestry frame holder
The image below shows better the tilt I like when weaving. These tapestry frame holders have to clamp to a table. In the image you can see that the table I’m using is too fat with a big rounded edge to do that effectively, so I’ve put a white board on top which is clamped to my table and the clamps attach to that. Most of my studio equipment is used this way because my tabletops are too thick to accommodate ball winders, swifts, and these clamps. I just bought a couple laminated shelves at a hardware store without the parts you attach to the wall and when I’m not using them they slide into the corner of the studio.
Artisan Bobbin’s tapestry frame and holders; showing the tilt of the loom which is completely adjustable.
I’ve really enjoyed playing with this loom and the heavy weaversbazaar yarn. I have not yet finished this sample piece. I started the weaving just wanting to try this yarn but I like it so much, I might declare this a proper tapestry when it is done. Here is where it stands today, not quite halfway done.
Trying out a new loom and yarn: weaversbazaar 5/2 wool and their Artisan Tapestry Frame
This loom doesn’t have a shedding device and I’m having so much fun with that. I forget until I pick up a pipe loom how much I enjoy picking the shed (provided I do a good job warping and setting up the open shed!). I talked about ridging that you see some at the bottom of this piece on Change the Shed HERE and you can see at the top it has disappeared as I pay more attention to getting my weft tension equal. Picking the shed also makes good weft tension easier because you put in tiny bits of weft at a time.
Mirrix does make an easel for their looms. I’ve had many students use box easels to support those looms and I think the way that they’re held top and bottom instead of on the sides is probably easier for that particular loom. The old Hagen stands are my dream tapestry stand so if anyone has one they want to sell, let me know! Every time I see Tommye Scanlin post something with her Hagen stand in it, I tilt my head a bit wistfully. Hagen looms were made in Norway a long time ago now but you can still find them here and there. They made a stand that sits on the floor and has rotating clamps on each side. There is an image of what I’m talking about in Robbie LaFleur’s blog post HERE.
What are your favorite tapestry frames and do you use any kind of clamps or stand for them? Let us know in the comments!
*I do not have an affiliate agreement with weaversbazaar or Artisan Bobbins, I just like their equipment. In this case I paid full price for everything I’m showing including the yarn. I like their products and that is why I’m showing them. I don’t make any money from doing so.