Arriving in Iceland

The Textile Center in Blonduos, Iceland has an artist residency for fiber artists. I have wanted to make my own trip here since my colleague Cornelia Theimer Gardella started coming here for residencies in 2015. I wasn’t sure the residency would happen until not long before we left because of covid, but I am now in Iceland. I’m currently watching the ice float by on the river Blanda and contemplating some designs to turn Icelandic fleece into small tapestries.

I flew into Reykjavik of course and had a couple days in the city before getting a bus north about 150 miles to Blonduos. Reykjavik feels walkable and fairly small though I realize this is just because they have a defined city center and there are extensive suburbs. I enjoyed walking the path along the harbor and watching the Esja massif across the water in the changing light.

Sun Voyager, Reykjavik, Iceland

Most of my wandering was to look for yarn, food, and art museums. And there was as much walking along the water as I could stand. One day was quite sunny and warm but I was glad for a warm base layer under my pants always. This main street, Skolavordustigur, has gluten free crepes (Eidur & Is), a bookstore that carries some art supplies and about half and half English and Icelandic titles, and the famed Handknitting Association of Iceland.

Skolavordustigur street in Reykjavik looking toward the church, Hallgrimskirkja at the top of the hill.

The Handknitting Association of Iceland is the place to go to pick up your first stash of Lopi yarn. They have all the sizes. Most of the shop is handknitted sweaters, so if you’re looking for one of those, also a good place to stop.

I stopped at the Handknitters Association of Iceland a couple times, the last time by myself to make my first yarn purchases. I had to take a bus the next day so I didn’t feel like I could buy a lot since I had to carry it in hand. I only bought 4 skeins of Einband and some of that dyed fleece. I wish I had purchased more of the fleece as it was very inexpensive and it packed down to nothing. I am not planning on dyeing during this residency so I wanted some pre-dyed Icelandic to mix with the natural colors.

This is most of the yarn section of the Handknitters Association of Iceland. They only have lopi but they have some gorgeous naturally dyed options if you don’t want the plain immersion dyed yarns. There is another shelf with a few other non-lopi yarns to the right of this image. Notice there is also dyed fleece and plotulopi to the left!

This was all I came away with in Reykjavik. I suspected I’d find more up north.

The new concert hall Harpa, which opened in 2011, is gorgeous and is an open public space. I really loved the light inside and the way you could look up many stories and see the sky through the hexagonal glass panes.

Harpa Concert Hall, Reykjavik, Iceland

Harpa Concert Hall, Reykjavik

Inside the Harpa Concert Hall, Reykjavik

I went to the Settlers Exhibition where they had this displayed warp-weighted loom. This method of weaving is fascinating and I’ve found more books about this weaving method since. The loom was warped for a twill with 3 shafts. One day I’ll either set up a loom like this or find one to try. I definitely wanted to try shifting the sheds but was pretty sure the young man in charge that day would quickly tell me it was not allowed.

Warp-weighted loom at the Settlers Exhibition in Reykjavik, Iceland

Loom weights for a warp-weighted loom. Replica loom at the Settlers Exhibition in Reykjavik, Iceland.

I love harbors and boats. There were many smaller craft in the harbor and there were two huge ships that people were actively working on.

Ship being worked on in Reykjavik harbor

Sun Voyager and Mt. Esja

We all have our fantasy boats,
vessels that we dream of sailing
away in, into the dream. In my
ships I unite my own fantasy,
precision and the knowledge that
boat builders have developed
throughout the ages. The sun
ship gives us a promise of a
primeval land.
— Jon Gunnar Arnason, 1986, Sun Voyager

I’m headed to Blonduos next! Stay tuned for adventures in Icelandic sheep and tapestry weaving.