No more floppy selvedges! This is the knot to use.

There are only a few things that I’d say regularly frustrate new tapestry weavers and one of them is the final knot on the warping bar of a continuously warped tapestry loom. If that last knot doesn’t hold tightly, then your edge selvedge will be loose which affects your weaving. Using a double half-hitch knot allows you to adjust the tension on that last warp with a knot that will hold.

Continuous warping

Example of a continuously warped tensioned tapestry loom: Mirrix Big Sister.

What does that mean? A continuous warp is one which wraps around the outside of a tensioned frame loom. Some common examples of this type of loom are the Schacht Arras and most Mirrix looms. These looms use a warping bar. The bar gives you a place to tie the beginning and ending warp securely as well as a rigid structure to help you turn the tapestry around the loom without distorting it. This type of loom can produce a tapestry that is longer than the loom is high.

The double half-hitch knot used on a warping bar

The video below shows you how to make this knot.

You can find a step-by-step run through of the whole process of warping a continuously warped tapestry loom in my book, The Art of Tapestry Weaving starting on page 75. The double half-hitch knot instructions are on page 279. I cover this topic in video form in my online course, Warp and Weft: Learning the Structure of Tapestry.

Tips from the video

  • Unless you were born with a third hand, I recommend liberal use of blue painter’s tape. This tape is less sticky than masking tape but it can handily hold warp threads tightly while you make a knot. You’ll find blue tape in the painting section of your hardware store. It can be other colors in other countries.

  • In the clip where I’m showing the knot on a Mirrix Lani loom, I have the loom turned backwards as I tie it. You can definitely do this especially on such a small loom. It makes the warping bar easier to access and the knot easier to tie. If you’re using a larger loom that isn’t warped so close to the uprights, it is just as easy to tie the knot while you’re still facing the front of the loom.

  • It should be said that I’m using cotton seine twine from Bockens for this demonstration. I use this warp for most of my tapestry weaving for many reasons. This knot will work with other warps, but it might be harder to slide depending on what the fiber content and construction of your warp is.

Need a diagram?

There is a great one in The Art of Tapestry Weaving on page 279 or the one below was drawn by Molly McNeece for an as-yet unpublished sequel to my first book, Untangled: A Crafty Sheep’s Guide to Tapestry Weaving.

How to make a double half-hitch knot at the end of a continuous warp. Also useful for the double half-hitch header!

The double half-hitch is a very handy knot for tapestry weavers. It may be called something else in other industries. I also use it to create a row of knots in headers on some of my tapestries. But the best use of this knot after staking out tents securely, is for that final knot around the warping bar on your tapestry loom.